Altiplano in Peru & Bolivia 1996

Over a period of 6 months on the altiplano I visited quite a number of towns and villages at an altitude of 3000 to 4000 metres. Life at this height is more challenging than normal, because the soil is often very poor and the weather extreme.

On location painting in the street.

I made a point of painting the activity in the street at each place I visited. The Latin culture mixed with the indigenous Qechua or Aymara traditions were fascinating to observe. Next to each picture I have written some of my experiences.

Policeman, Chivay, Peru.

An anoying dog kept running over my picture, so, this policeman came over and stepped on it. He was very proud to exercising his duties and insisted on being in my picture too. He said, he would exhibit it in the town hall.

He ordered passers-by to stand still while I sketched them. It took precedence over catching bandits he told me.

“Are you paid by your Government to do this ?” he asked.
I shook my head.
“I work for my Government, but would like to learn to paint in watercolour.”

He seemed a very unlikely character to want to paint in watercolour as several times he had mimed letting his gun off at the poor dogs head.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Chola market, Puno, Peru.

The women of Puno market are the gossip queens of Peru. Locally known as Cholas these fat women are from the Aymara minority. Key features include, a rounded bowler hat and knee length multi layered skirts.

During the Spanish colonial period in Peru and Bolivia both Aymara and Qechuan Indians were persecuted badly. They were often used as slaves and made to vacate good farm land.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Allotment, Chivay, Peru

Admiring the picture the father of the property I was painting warned me to be very careful while hiking around these mountains. Not because of bandits, but because it is very dry.

He showed me how they have to channelled the water by canal from a stream some miles away.

Last year a German tourist walking over towards the volcano didn’t come back. He got dried out, the father explained. I later found out he was one of the ones to find him.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Cero Rico, (Rich Mountain), Potosi.

Since the first Spanish invaders this mountain has been mined for Silver. Indigenous indian slaves and prisoners were employed to do most of the digging, many died. Now, 300 years on, much of the inside of the mountain slides down the outside.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Picture by local kids with football
and Cero Rico in background.

Sorata, Bolivia.

I found this spot high up from Sorata town. This kid sat with his dog and turned on his radio.

He told me he was on his way to school, but he stayed most of the day, until I’d finished the picture actually. Then he disappeared back the way he came.

The kid helped to colour in the fields and trees, so, that could have been his schooling for the day instead ?

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Sheep on AltiPlano, Tiawanacu, Peru.

These herders helped colour in the picture and added the mountains at the top when there wasn’t actually any mountains to be seen.

“I can’t see any mountains?” I said.
They assured me, however, that they were actually there, but that they were just beyond where you could see.

In the end, I gathered a picture of Bolivia without the mountains, was like a shepherd without his sheep. The fact you could not see them didn't matter to them, the mountians are a symbol of there homeland.

Watercolour & oil pastel on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird £175

Llamas

2 days by bus, then 2 days walking to reach Sajama National Park 4200m altitude. Survived on llama stew and alpaca steak !

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Tiabuku market, Bolivia.

Here in Tiabuku the locals wear skullcap type hats, echoing the style of helmet of the first Spanish conquistadors. The square topped hat is for women after marriage.

The locals who helped have signed their names. They told me for a perfect picture of Bolivia the sun has to be in the centre, sending its rays out over the people. Then, rows upon rows of potato plants should be lining the hillsides.

Oil pastel on paper 65/45 cm
by Simon Bird £ 100

Olliantitango, Peru.

I had a fever, but was bored of lying in bed, so, I took 2 paracetemal and went out into the plaza to paint.

It was a traditional place, but everyone appeared a little strange and twisted.

After the picture, I went back to bed and my illness worsened and lasted for a further 2 weeks.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold