Altiplano in Peru & Bolivia 1996

I spent 6 months travelling around the Altiplano, visiting many towns and villages which were all at an altitude of between 3000 and 4000 metres. Life up here is harsh and difficult because of the poor soil and cold weather.

On location painting in the Street

Every town or village I arrived at I went out and painted the activity in the street. The Latin culture mixed with the indigenous Qechua or Aymara traditions were fascinating to watch. Next to each picture I have written a brief account of my experiences in the street.

Chivay Policeman, Chivay, Peru

Because a dog kept running over my picture this policeman came over and stepped on it. He was very proud of exercising his duties and insisted on being in my picture he said he would exhibit it the town hall.

He stayed with me ordering various people to stand still while I sketched. It took precedence over catching bandits he said.

“Are you paid by your government to do this,” he asked me?”
I shook my head.
“I work for my government, but would like to learn to paint in watercolour.”

He seemed a very unlikely character to want to paint in watercolour as several times he mimed letting his gun off at the poor dogs head.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Chola market, Puno, Peru.

The women of Puno market were the gossip queens of Peru. They had great fun trying to sell me all their vegetable stock.

These fat women are known as Cholas and are of Aymara stock. Traditionally Aymara women wear rounded bowler hats and multi layered knee length skirts because of the cold weather on the altiplano.

Aymaras are Indigenous Indians who live mostly on the altiplano. During the course of history both Aymara and Qechuan people have been heavily discriminated against and were often used as slaves and vacated from good farm land.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Allotment, Chivay, Peru

Admiring the picture the father told me to be careful walking around here, because there is no water and it gets hot during the day.

He showed me how they have to channelled the water by canal from a stream some miles away.

He said a German tourist went hiking over towards the volcano last summer and didn’t come back. Got dried out!

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Cero Rico, (Rich Mountain), Potosi.

Since the first Spanish invaders this Mountain has been mined for Silver. Slaves and prisoners were employed to do most of the digging, many died. Now 300 years on much of the inside of the mountain slides down the outside.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

picture by local kids with football
and Cero Rico in background.

Sorata, Bolivia.

I found this spot high up from Sorata town. This kid sat with his dog and turned on his radio.

He told me he was on his way to school, but he stayed most of the day until I’d finished painting then disappeared back the way he came.

He helped to colour in the fields and trees, so that could have been his schooling for the day instead ?

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Sheep on AltiPlano, Tiawanacu, Peru.

These herders helped colour in the picture and added the mountains at the top when there wasn’t actually any mountains to be seen.

“I can’t see any mountains?” I said.
They assured me, however, that they were there, but that they were just beyond where you could see.

In the end I gathered a picture of Bolivia without the mountains was like a herder without his sheep. The fact you could not see them didn't matter.

Watercolour & Oil pastel on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird £175

Llamas

2 days by bus + 2 days walking to reach Sajama National Park 4200m alt. survived on Llama stew and Alpaca steak.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold

Tiabuku market, Bolivia.

Here in Tiabuku the locals wear skullcap type hats, echoing the style of helmet from the first Spanish conquistadors. The square topped hat is for women after marriage.

The locals who helped have signed their names. They told me for a perfect picture of Bolivia the sun has to be in the centre, sending its rays out over the people. Then rows upon rows of potato plants should be lining the valley walls.

Oil Pastel on paper 65/45 cm
by Simon Bird £ 100

Olliantitango, Peru.

I had a fever, but was bored of lying in bed, so I took 2 paracetemal and went out into the plaza to paint.

It was a traditional place, but everyone appeared slight odd and strange.

After the picture I went back to bed and my illness worsened and lasted for a further 2 weeks.

Watercolour on handmade paper 70/50 cm
by Simon Bird - sold