Garo Culture

Where women rule !... by Simon & Katerina

See more photos from our trip on our - Facebook page.

Traditionally head hunters, the Garo are now among the friendliest people you will meet in Meghalaya. Like their Khasi neighbours, the Garo also have a matrilineal system and select a daughter to inherit the property, but unlike the Khasi, the men seem to be happy with this arrangement. This could be because of a strong clan system that keeps a check on society - mafia style. Compared to Mainland India, the Garo hills are again a sanctuary for women’s equality and freedom.

Matriarchal strength... Medium

• A selected daughter inherits the family home and wealth.
• Girls initiate relationships.
• After divorce, regardless of who initiates it, the husband must move out of his wife's household.

Threats to the system...High

• An influx of cheap whisky has driven many people into alcoholism, which in turn threatens the social system.
• Western consumer advertising promotes the idea that modern means patriarchal.
• Coal mining in the Garo Hills is creating wealth among the lucky few, which in turn is distancing them from tradition culture.

“ I use to drink a lot, but, I don't drink at all now," says Dan, who works for the Government Electoral Role Department in William Nagar.

“Alcohol has destroyed so many families, it is too cheap and readily available. I know, because I was drinking and I know what it does to your head.”

Dan's family is now in the process of adopting a baby girl.

“We only have 2 sons, that is why we want a girl. So we can keep our clan name alive, and, also, for her to run the property when we are old.” Dan’s wife smiles in agreement.

Dan show us the video of his adopted daughter.

The Garo are the next largest tribe in Meghalaya with a population of 690,000, of which 90% are now Christian. Unlike the Khasi who originated from South East Asia, the Garo come from Tibetan stock.

Garo often build tree houses to guard over crops and villages, because of wild elephants, tigers and others beasts still at large in the mostly forested landscape.

Since the 1950’s the discovery of coal in the region has led to a sudden growth in commercial mining and business ventures.

“When I am in Shillong I am a house wife, and when I am here I am a business woman,” Ferdina says who first started in the coal industry, but, now runs a building materials company.

"Because I am dealing in a male business, everybody takes me as a man,” Ferdina says, and laughs aloud like a very confident woman, or as Simon notes - like a man!

"Women in business are coming up, we cannot just depend on men or our husbands. We have to help each other, not for competition between husband and wife, but for our children's future.”

“Girls mostly propose to boys, and sometimes the boy can refuse,” says Namus, a Geologist working for the local Government.

Namus goes on to explain about the old tradition of
‘Bridegroom Capture’.

"It was considered the only decent way to invite a man to become a husband."

'Male relatives of the girl capture a boy she likes, and bring him back to the village, where she is waiting for him. In order for the boy to show his pride and prove he is not cheap, he has to escape at least two times and be recaptured. Generally, it is on the third capture in which he agrees to marry; if, however, he escapes again it is considered to be a refusal.'

A traditional festival is held every year just South of William Nagar, and, these days is followed by a very loud local rock band.