Garo Culture

Where women rule !... by Simon & Katerina

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Traditionally head hunters, the Garo are now among the friendliest people you will meet in Meghalaya. Like their Khasi neighbours, the Garo also have a matrilineal system and select a daughter to inherit the property, but unlike the Khasi, the men seem to be happy with this arrangement. Some say it is because of a strong clan system that keeps a check on society - mafia style.

Matriarchal strength... Medium

• Children take the mother’s surname, and the daughters pass the name onto their children (matrilineal).
• Girls choose who they want to marry and initiate relationships.
• A chosen daughter inherits the ancestral property, but her husband manages it, both, however, are ultimately controlled by the family clans.
• The clans are ones who uphold matrilineal law.

Threats to the system... High

• New economic opportunities especially in the coal business is strengthening the man’s independence.
• An influx of cheap alcohol from India is encouraging men to behave more macho.
• Christianity is siding with the idea of male run nuclear families.

“I use to drink a lot, but, I don't drink at all now," says Dan, who works for the Government Electoral Role Department in William Nagar.

“I understand its attraction, but alcohol has destroyed so many families; it is too cheap and readily available. Now I do not drink because I have a health problem.”

Dan then surprises us with a burst of enthusiasm: “We have adopted a daughter to be the heiress, and to carry the title” he says unable to suppress a big smile.

“We did not plan to do it, we were very lucky, a friend of mine told me about a poor family whose father is sick and they are giving out one daughter for adoption.”

Dan show us the video of his adopted daughter.

The Garo are the second largest tribe in Meghalaya with a population of 690,000, of which 90% are now Christian. Unlike the Khasi who originated from South East Asia, the Garo come from Tibetan stock.

Garo often build tree houses to guard over crops and villages; wild elephants, tigers and others beasts are said to be still at large in the thickly forested landscape.

The Garo raided the plains villages in Assam feverishly to amass vast amounts of skulls. It wasn't unitl 1873 that headhunting was effectively stopped by the British.

Since the 1950’s the discovery of coal in the region has led to a sudden growth in commercial mining and business ventures.

“When I am in Shillong I am a house wife, and when I am here I am a business woman,” Ferdina says, who first started in the coal industry, but now runs a building materials company.

"Because I am dealing in a male business, everybody takes me as a man,” she says, laughing aloud like a very confident woman, or - like a man!

"Women in business are coming up, we cannot just depend on men or our husbands. We have to help each other, not for competition between husband and wife, but for our children's future too.”

“Girls mostly propose to boys, and sometimes the boy can refuse,” says Namus, a Geologist working for the local Government.

Namus goes on to explain about the old tradition of ‘Bridegroom Capture’. "It was considered the only decent way to invite a man to become a husband."

'Male relatives of the girl capture a boy she likes, and bring him back to the village, where she is waiting for him. In order for the boy to show his pride and prove he is not cheap, he has to escape at least two times and be recaptured. Generally, it is on the third capture in which he agrees to marry; if, however, he escapes again it is considered to be a refusal.'

“My wife was chosen to be the heiress, by her mother’s and father’s clan representatives from all their eligible daughters. But, she still cannot sell ancestral property herself,” Namus emphasises

“For me, this means, after the death of my father-in-law, I will become a ‘Nokma’, the chief of the family and village, but, even then, I cannot sell the ancestral property myself, that decision lies with the clan.”

"Everyone is kept under check by the clan - everyone is known,” Namus says with wide eyes trying to intimidate us.

A traditional festival is held every year just South of William Nagar, and, these days is followed by a very loud rock concert.