On location Painting by Simon Bird
To promote the use of art for raising awareness about the developing world

Minangkabau Culture

Where women rule ! ... by Simon & Katerina

See more photos from our trip on our - Facebook page.

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Indonesia, with the highest Muslim population in the world, is now, emerging as a major commercial player in the international community. One of the ethnic groups at the forefront of business is the Minangkabou in Western Sumatra.

Amazingly though, despite the adoption of the Muslim faith, the Minangkabou, have also managed to keep their traditional matrilineal culture alive. This means, girls are prioritised over boys and ancestral family property is owned and run by women, creating gender equality in a society which you would assume to be strictly male orientated.

Matriarchal strength... Medium

  • Women are leaders of the household and legend tells of a great ruling Queen.
  • Only daughters inherit ancestral property.
  • Women often work as traders and have professional careers.

Threats to the system...High

  • Islam religions has been installing patriarchal values on Minang society.
  • Indonesian commercialism is creating a male run society.
  • State policy and state education are proclaiming male headed nuclear families to be the norm.

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Desi, Katerina, Ayu

“I am happy to be a girl in our society," says Ayu, “ because, we inherit our clan name from the mother”. Ayu and Desi. are students of Biology at the University of Padang on the West coast of Sumatra.

We met them on the promenade, they were writing mottos on the rocks.

Desi writing on stone, by Katerina.

You must be the best.
Don’t be a loser.
Keep smiling baby,
Allah with you.

“Women are more respected in our culture, they have more security,” says Desi. “ If a couple separates the man has to move out and leave the house for the wife.”

“It’s easier for a man to find a job, that’s why a woman needs the inheritance. If a man takes something from his parents, it is a big embarrassment for him.”

“For us Islam comes first, then Minangkabau. Minangkabau culture is based on Islam, “ clarifies Ayu.

Batusankar town.

Minangkabou culture is the largest matrilineal society on the planet numbering 6 million people. 4.2 in West Sumatra, the rest in other Indonesian provinces and abroad.

Old folk tales describe a powerful queen ‘Bundo Kanduang’, who once ruled the land. These days senior Minangkabau women are still referred to as Bundo Kanduang (meaning: Our own mother)

Two Minang women

“Minang women look after money,” says Norbaiti with a self assured smile, who has a street stall.

“Men give money to the women to look after. If my husband wants to buy cigarettes, he has to ask me for the money,” she laughs.

Norbaiti-and-minang-smoking-man

At the tourist information in Padang we meet Trishna. He is a liberal Muslim who seems to have a Western outlook on life.

“There are not any movements within society which would fight to change the system, but the system is changing itself thanks to outside influences."

Minang culture being swept away, by Katerina.

“I am using my father’s surname, belonging to my mother’s clan is not important any more, at least, not in a city like Padang”, says Trishna, who has studied tourism in Holland for the last two years.

“Minang people like to go outside to study and work and are very proud about it,” Trishna explains.

These days, it is not unusual for women to also, 'Go to the world', as they say.

Minang cinema

“I want to be an Ambassador”, confines Rika, a law student, who is working in the tourist office in Bukittingi.

The first female minister of Indonesia was a Minang scholar - Rasuna Said. She fought for equality between men and women and was awarded the title 'National Hero of Indonesia'.

Despite Minang women having the reputation for achieving in their careers, Rika informs us that everyday life can still be difficult."

“When we walk on the street, men shout at us”, Rika says

“It is very annoying, but it is the woman’s responsibility to ignore it. It is the women’s responsibility to be strong."

Happy chair

“I have grown up with boys," says Happy Chair, an English teacher from Batusangkar.

"My friends told me boys can be your friends and protect you. I used to walk in Padang by myself. Nobody ever did anything bad to me - confidence is important !”

“Minang culture means that boys and girls are same. Thanks God!”

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About

Simon Bird
Katerina Karaskova
Matriarchal Project

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Matriarchal Project
Home & about the project 2012

South West China.
Mosuo culture
North East India.
Khasi culture
Garo culture
Sumatra, Indonesia.
Minangkobau culture
South West Mexico.
Zapotec culture
Southern Panama.
Kuna culture

Recommend the Matriarchal Project

Simon - simoncbird@hotmail.com or Katerina - karak6aj@hotmail.com