Zapotec culture

Where women rule !... by Simon & Katerina

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Matriarchal strength...Low

• Women control business and family money.
• Women are actively involved in politics.
• 'Culture centres' celebrate traditional dress and matriarchal heritage.

Threats to the system...High

• Young women do not dress in traditional clothes - save for cultural events.
• Fewer women are doing business, because of competition from outsiders.
• Men are drinking too much and beating their wives !

" Yes, it is a matriarchal system here, but, the men think that it is not," says a large woman selling mangos at the market in Tehuantepec. " Women look after the money, so they have control."

Women at the market are fully clad in traditional costume; long flowing skirts and beautiful black tops with colourfully embroidered flowers.

The stricking tops worn by the Tehuana women were made famous by the artist Frida Kahlo, many of her self portraits show her in traditional Tehuana attire. It was the robust designs combined with the reputation of the women that attracted her.

According to locals, Diego Rivera and Frida even rented a house for short periods in Tehuantepec, in order to experience the vibrancy of the culture and buy clothes.

It may have been the ancient Zapotec farming method that helped to raise the status of the women here. And today, many families still practice the old ways...

Men go to the feilds at 3am to cultivate vegetables, they return at 10am and give the produce to the women. The women sell the produce at the market, then afterwards, give the men a small allowance, keeping the rest for running the home. These days, the man's pocket money invariably gets spend on alcohol, namely mescal (a strong spirit made from the local Agava plant).

"Women are in charge," the policeman says, slowly nodding his head then breaking into laughter.

"It is true for some familes in the SanBlas area, women are strong there, but, most families are now like the rest of Mexico."

Moments after the policeman leaves the bar a fight erupts. The barman tries to stop it, but it is too late. The women are at each others throats kicking and shouting.

One evening we are invited to a local fiesta in SanBlas. A large colourful plastic shelter with cut out paper streamers spans the street. Two stacks of bottled beer are parked either side, one for the women and one for the men.

The women have made a special effort to wear their most colourful dresses, the men are just in jeans and a shirt with a token scarf slung over the shoulder and a cowboy hat.

At 7 pm a fight breaks out between the women and the men. Something to do with one side drinking more than they should have done?

At the end of the evening the women pick the men up off the floor and drag them home.

Katerina befriends an old lady selling boiled plums in the plaza.

"I am 79 years old," she says, "I still look good because I never got married, so never had to put up with a man."

Although she was always single, she brought up her nephew and paid for his schooling.

She says, "Men loved me for my beauty, but I never wanted them, because they are all horrible alcoholics."